How to Grow and Care for Passion-fruit/flower/Plant Info Article

Passiflora spp.

Passionflower is arguably one of the most unique specimens of flora on the planet.

Blooms of this vine are flamboyant and complicated, with a large crown of corona filaments reaching from the stamen that make identification easy.

This genus also includes a whopping selection of more than 500 species separated into three main types: purple, yellow, and granadilla (red).

What You’ll Learn

• What Is Passionflower or Passion Fruit?
• Cultivation and History
• Propagation
• How to Grow
• Growing Tips
• Species to Select
• Managing Pests and Disease
• Harvesting
• Preserving and Culinary Use
• Quick Reference Growing Guide

What Is Passionflower or Passion Fruit?

Passionflower is a semi-herbaceous, fruiting vine native to Latin America, but many varieties have been naturalized throughout other regions of the world.

In North America, for example, some varieties can be seen growing wild alongside woodland areas, in thickets, and from disturbed, fertile ground.

The majority of species in this genus grow best in regions where temperatures do not fall below 32°F.

However, even in areas where temperatures are lower, some varieties of this perennial will not die off entirely if temperatures remain above about 5°F, as the roots are very hardy and can be protected by mulching and covering.

Most successful cultivation occurs in regions where temperatures are between 60 and 90°F throughout the year, such as in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 in the southern United States.

Flowers and fruit grow simultaneously, with blooms from spring through late fall, and fruit produced from May through August, in most regions.

This vine offers a wide range of color variations in its blooms, from pale lavender and blue to flame red and orange, the latter of which can be seen in Passiflora ‘Sunburst.’

When growing a flowering ornamental, the aroma of its blossoms can be hit or miss, as some stunning plants have a truly horrendous, reeking odor.

Fortunately this is not the case with most types of passionflower, as blossoms generally produce an intoxicating, heady fragrance, such as the gardenia-like scent of the P. mooreana species.

Vines can reach up to 30 feet in length without pruning.

Even though the vines do not require pruning to produce flowers and fruit, they can quickly become overgrown in the home garden under ideal conditions.

Native tribes in North and South America foraged and cultivated the plants for a multitude of uses.

Throughout many cultures, the blossoms, foliage, roots, and fruit are used in herbal medicine. Modern day uses also include flavoring food items, and adding fragrance to perfume and soaps.

While the visual appeal of the blooms is undeniable – many gardeners choose to cultivate passionflower for ornamental purposes – its flowers are highly attractive to pollinators.

Most varieties of the vines also produce edible passion fruit. However, it’s important to note that not all types produce edible fruits, so consider this when choosing a species or cultivar to suit your needs.

Propagation

Passionflower will thrive with fulfilment of its basic needs. Let’s discuss some of the best methods of propagating this beautiful, useful plant.

From Seed

Fruits of the passionflower vine, called passion fruit, are classified as berries, with a round or oblong shape and tough exterior.

A pulpy sac of up to 300 seeds is contained inside, each one individually surrounded with a slippery membrane.

When the fruit has ripened to deep yellow-orange, purple, or red and begun to crinkle on the exterior, the seeds will be ripe for planting.

To increase your chances of successful germination, rub the seeds against a mildly abrasive surface such as a paper towel, a piece of rough fabric, or a bit of screen to break open the membrane surrounding the seed.

Soak seeds in warm water overnight.

While they are soaking, prepare three-inch pots with a handful of compost or seed starting mix. Add one to two seeds to each, planted about one inch deep. Moisten, but do not drench the soil.

Seeds generally germinate within a few days to a week. Seeds that have been allowed to dry out may take longer to germinate, or they may not grow at all.

From Cuttings

Cuttings can take weeks to root. If you are propagating from cuttings, be sure that the parent plant is not grafted onto rootstock, as this can increase the likelihood of developing suckers as plants mature.

Cuttings taken from grafted stock may produce undesirable results such as poor plant health; stunted or abnormal growth; diminished or absent fruit production; or production of abnormal, inedible fruit.

Suckers appear as shoots that grow from the roots at ground level, and while they may seem useful for starting new vines, suckers are not productive and will not produce fruit, or they may produce fruit that is not edible.

Prepare a pot or tray with three parts builder’s sand to one part soil. Coarse industrial silica sand generally works best, as it allows for good drainage.

Choose a segment of about 6 inches in length and remove the lowest set of leaves. Dip the cut end in powdered rooting hormone if desired.

Push the stem into the rooting mixture and moisten. Continue to keep the potting medium moistened but not wet, as cuttings will draw moisture from humidity in the air until roots begin to develop.

Keep cuttings in a greenhouse or container – such as a clear plastic storage tote with a lid – to retain humidity and warmth. Once roots develop, follow the directions below for planting seedlings.

The delicate yellowish-white petals are covered with a large dark purple corona.

P. caerulea

Blue passionflower, P. caerulea,  is a good choice for midwestern US gardens, as this variety is hardy to Zone 8 with adequate water.

This species is known for its white petals and blue corona filaments, and deep orange fruits.

A winner of the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden merit, there are a number of cultivars available.

‘Constance Elliott’ has fragrant white flowers, ‘Chinensis’ sports delicate pale blue blossoms, and ‘Grandiflora’ has large, six-inch fragrant blooms.

‘Betty Miles Young’ is light purple, with dark purple filaments.

P. coccinea

Red passionflower, P. coccinea, produces bright scarlet flowers with white, purple, and yellow crowns.

This showy variety produces edible fruit that turns yellow when ripe.

‘Scarlet Flame’

P. mooreana

P. mooreana is great for gardeners who would prefer to grow their vine in a container, so it can be brought indoors during cold snaps.

Blooms have a strong, sweet fragrance. Delicate blue or white flowers with light blue filaments bloom from early summer to fall.

This smaller variety will still quickly overtake the space it inhabits if left unsupervised, but if pruned to the length of the support provided – such as a small trellis – it’s an excellent choice for fragrance, beauty, and edible fruit.

Managing Pests and Disease

Passionflower contains naturally occurring chemical substances called cyanogenic glycosides that prevent many insect pests from feasting, but the vine is still susceptible to disease.

Let’s take a look at some of the common maladies and afflictions that can befall this plant.

Herbivores

Few animals will disturb passionflower, however, those that do can cause quite a bit of damage.

Deer

Passion fruit is surrounded by a tough exterior that becomes shriveled and hard as it ripens.

This does not deter deer from munching on them from time to time, but planting in a protected area can prevent fruit from becoming dessert for Bambi.

Rabbits

In the home garden, rabbits often treat themselves to a buffet at your expense, and it is no different in this case.

As with deer, the best preventative measure is to keep the plants in a protected area.

Insects

A variety of beneficial insects will visit blossoms throughout the growing season, which is a joy to behold. But there can be infestations of harmful pests as well.

Always consider the least environmentally damaging alternative when dealing with pests.

Aphids

These tiny, army-forming nuisances will devastate your garden, given the chance, so it is best to nip their residency in the bud as quickly as possible once they’re spotted.

Not only do they suck sap from vegetation, their indiscriminate consumption causes the spread of viral diseases between plants.

Find them under the flowers, gathered together in clusters, and along the stems.

Pay careful attention to your vines – if you see ants marching to and from your blooms, there may be aphids present as well, as the two have a mutually beneficial symbiotic relationship.

Ants farm aphids for “honeydew” (secreted droppings), and aphids depend upon ants for protection from predation.

An excellent, natural way to combat this problem is to introduce ladybugs or a native species of praying mantis to your garden.

A blast of water from the garden hose can knock aphids from their position, but because of the ample hiding places available with this vine, this method may not remove all insects and can cause damage to blossoms.

Otherwise, the least damaging method of removal is donning a pair of gloves and squishing the aphids as you find them.

Read more about dealing with aphids in the garden here.